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Yes, all edges of a TrueDEK Classic must be supported, as well as the adjacent subfloor edges. Additionally, the drain area requires support. We recommend 2x stock for all support blocking, and make sure the blocking underlays all edges by 1" or more.

Chances are, the blocking you installed to support the drain hole is too close to the hole, so that the reinforcement ring on the underside of the foundation is preventing the foundation from sitting on the joists properly. If you look at the underside of the foundation you'll see there is a strengthening ring around the drain hole. If the ring or reinforcement area rests on blocking or a joist or some other support, it can prevent the shower foundation from seating properly. As screws are driven around the perimeter of the base, the area around the drain hole will remain raised, resulting in flex when a person steps on the base. This error must be corrected before tiling the shower; if not corrected, grout is likely to crack, tile may pop loose, and water may run away from the drain.

If joists or blocking are uneven, or there are high or low spots on the top edges of joists or blocking, this can also cause flex. You want to achieve even support along every joist, and from joist to joist, while assuring that the foundation is level.

You will see some flex until the base is fully installed with polyurethane construction adhesive and screws, just as you would see with underlayment materials like plywood subfloor, for example.

A Classic foundation that is seated evenly on joists and blocking may flex a little, but once it's fastened and bonded to the framing structure it becomes very rigid, just like plywood subfloor does when it's installed on joists.

You can trim the edges of any TrueDEK Classic base so that the drain hole ends up in the center, or at least cloer to center. But in their original format, every TrueDEK Classic base except for one has an off-center drain hole. An off-center drain hole allows an installer to rotate the foundation so the drain hole misses a joist or some other obstacle.

Use a quality brand of modified thinset mortar mix.

Before installing tile, TrueDEK foundations must be coated with Tank/10 waterproofing compound, which bonds to the plastic shower base and provides an ideal surface for the modified thinset mortar.

Modified thinset mortar will bond directly to the shower base, but it is an inferior bond. Tank/10 waterproofing, on the other hand, bonds very well to the plastic shower base, and it provides an anti-fracture membrane to protect grout and tile from minor movement in the underlayment that may otherwise cause a crack or fissure in the tile layer.

All holes are reinforced with a grommet, and the diameter of the grommet hole is ¼"

Each curtain has 10 holes for hooks. The holes are reinforced with grommets. The hole diameter is 1/4".

Tank/10 is a premium latex based liquid paste compound. It is quite thick and has a very high latex content, which results in a product that has the consistency of pudding and spreads out in a thick layer to create an exceptionally protective membrane. Tank/10 can be spread with a paint brush, paint roller, or toothed trowel. Cleanup is best done while the material is wet using warm water and a mild soap.

Tank/10 has a 3 year shelf life. A born-on date is printed on a label that is adhered to every bucket, and that date is also written on a label that is stuck to every waterproofing kit box. This shelf life applies to unopened containers. As soon as a container is unsealed the aging process will accelerate, just as with paint or glue or any other liquid.

The dark gray color of Tank/10 makes it easier to spread over shower foundations and tile backer (you can easily see spots you miss) and the color darkens as the compound dries. When applying the second coat it's easy to see the areas that are wet (lighter gray) and dry (darker gray).

The difference between these kits is in the amount of waterproofing supplies that are included.

The Premium Kit has enough waterproofing materials to do a full alcove shower, including the shower base and three walls. The Pro Kit was created for installers who prefer to waterproof the shower base with Tank/10, then use other waterproofing products on the walls.

It's up to an installer to consider compatibility of different waterproofing products and their appropriate use in a shower system.

Yes, they can. The bar on these back rests is very stout and the fact that they project from the wall a good distance makes them a natural handhold.

Be sure back rests are fastened to solid blocking either in the wall or on the wall. The blocking must be well secured to the wall framing. This may require an installer to open the wall to fasten 2x wood blocking between studs. Screw cleats to the studs, then screw the blocking to the cleats (toenailing blocking to studs is insufficient for any load bearing device like a grab bar or seat). An installer could also screw through the studs into the ends of the blocking, though this requires a bigger opening into the wall to expose more stud bays. Alternatively, a strong piece of lumber can be fastened to the outside of the wall so long as the fasteners reach deeply into the framing; then the back rest can be secured to the piece of lumber.

The pad is made of closed cell foam. It is quite firm and will not absorb water.

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