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Sure, you can make a whole bunch of bends. Just make sure you don't make it too difficult to move the curtain glides in the track.

The manufacturer's limited warranty for defects is extended to the original "end-user" purchaser. When installed in a commercial setting, the warranty period is for 5 years from the original date of purchase. When installed in a residential setting, the warranty period is for 10 years from the original date of purchase. Please see the AKW warranty for details.

All glass screens are made of tempered safety glass that is 6mm thick (a hair under ¼").

The trim is made of aluminum and it's polished to a high gloss.

If you absolutely do not want to penetrate the waterproofing, then consider securing a strip of solid surface material like Corian or Avonite (there are many brands) to the finished floor with adhesive, then mount the glass screen hardware to it.

There really isn't a problem, however, with mounting glass screens directly to the floor. After drilling pilot holes, squeeze silicone sealant into the holes before driving the fasteners. Also, cover the fasteners with silicone once they're driven. The silicone will fill any gaps around the screws to seal the floor and keep water where is should be, draining from the shower. Take the time to silicone any floor or wall penetrations to prevent leaks--for example, with grab bar fasteners.

We recommend installing glass screens just outside the shower base so that you aren't drilling through the base itself. Make sure the fasteners will go through the subfloor and into blocking or joists below.

Yes, the glass screen rods are made of aluminum and are easy to cut with a hacksaw.

The manufacturer's limited warranty for defects is extended to the original "end-user" purchaser. When installed in a commercial setting, the warranty period is for 5 years from the original date of purchase. When installed in a residential setting, the warranty period is for 10 years from the original date of purchase. Please see the AKW warranty for details.

Sorry, these screens are only available with the polished aluminum trim.

Every glass screen is supplied with a 55" long bar, which can be cut to the length needed for an installation. This bar should be used to secure the end post to a nearby wall to make the screen rigid.

Separate tie bars are available (in 3 lengths) to span from one glass screen to another in situations where two screens are installed.

Yes, you can, within the limitations of a tile product's specs and TCNA guidelines. The point load rating on a Classic base is 4,000 pounds-force/sq. inch, so it can handle even the smallest mosaic tile, pebble, and glass coverings, as well as any typical wheelchair or shower chair use. We recommend mosaic tile (2" or smaller) because they can be installed without cuts within the shower base area and the many grout lines provide good traction in a wet shower. Bigger tile must be cut at the pitch intersections so that it lays down properly on the shower base.

The maximum tile thickness that the drain will accommodate is 1".

Many waterproofing products will not bond well to plastic shower bases. The waterproofing products ARC has developed have proven to work over thousands of installations, and we stand behind them. Using other products may or may not work, but you'll have to experiment to feel confident in the long-term results. Whatever you use has to do the job for the long haul.

The simple answer is, it must be level. The bubble has to be centered on a spirit level, and you want to check for level all around the perimeter and across the base from end-to-end and side-to-side. TrueDEK bases offer plenty of pitch to speed water to the drain, but every degree that's lost to an out-of-level installation hurts drainage performance.

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