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Yes, we do recommend it. Without the plugs, which are supplied with every linear shower base, the drain connector recesses will hold water and gunk from showering, and become an ugly little science experiment. Use silicone caulk to adhere the plugs in place and it will spare you from dealing with a yucky mess later on. Be sure to clean out the recesses with a damp cloth before installing the plugs.

ARC carries Sioux Chief's 825 solvent weld shower drain module for 2" drain line connections. One of these is supplied with each linear drain assembly. You can order additional connectors if you plan to install 2 or 3 drain lines.

You'll need to bore a 3-1/4" hole in the TriForm for each drain connector. A piloted hole saw is the easiest and least expensive tool for accomplishing this task. If you look at any of the supplied plugs for the drain recesses you'll notice they have a dimple centered in the top surface. Position a plug in the drain connector location you intend to use, and drill a 1/8" diameter pilot hole through the plug and the TriForm using the dimple to locate the drill bit. Now set the plug aside and use your 3-1/4" hole saw, outfitted with a mandrel and pilot drill bit, and bore out the large hole for the drain connector (just use the pilot hole you drilled earlier to guide the hole saw).

Sorry, no. We carry the full line of foundations, though we hasten to add that the size of the base does not limit the size of a shower. There are techniques for floating slope beyond a TrueDEK to enlarge the shower--see our Extend the Pitch instructions.

You can do this and it will be fine. Be sure you cut a hole for the drain that is large enough for the reinforcement ring. Failing to do so will cause the ring to catch on the subfloor and prevent the base from seating properly.

You don't have to, though most installers do. There are a lot of holes, and they are there for convenience. Driving screws holds the foundation in position while the adhesive cures. Once the adhesive cures there is little need for the screws.

We recommend #9 or #10 flathead screws that are 2" to 2½" long. We do suggest using coated screws as a bit of insurance against corrosion due to the wet environment. Pick a screw that is appropriate for the substructure beneath the shower foundation--wood screws for fastening to joists and Tapcon-style screws for concrete.

Yes. In fact, if you cut a Classic you will want to drill new countersunk pilot holes for fastening it to the joists or other foundation material. Also, if for some reason you need to secure the base in a spot where there isn't a pre-bored screw hole, simply drill a countersunk pilot hole into the field and drive a screw.

The perimeter of each foundation has a flat area for resting a level. If you have cut away a flat area, use the crest of the edge to set a level. Because of the importance of leveling a TrueDEK, consider using several levels to test your installation: a torpedo level for checking the edges, a longer carpenter's level for going edge to edge, and a bulls-eye level for spot checks, like around the drain hole.

Setting a TrueDEK on joists requires care and is a critical part of the installation. The entire perimeter of a base must be supported. Additionally, the drain area requires support. Use 2x stock for all support blocking, and make sure all edges are supported by at least 1½" of material. All adjacent subfloor edges also require support.

Sure, if properly installed and capable of supporting the weight you plan to set on it. A Classic makes a great dog-washing platform, and we've heard of them being installed as a catch basin in a floor under a washing machine. Anywhere you need a drain should be a candidate.

You have a couple of options, though as always, we prefer installations that provide zero-threshold entry into the shower. You can remove concrete to a depth of 1?? in the area where the base will go. We do this with a concrete-cutting saw and blade, first cutting along an outline of the foundation, then making scoring cuts about 1" apart inside the perimeter cuts. We remove the remaining waste with a hammer drill and chisel. Use thinset mortar to bond the base into the recess. Alternatively, you can install the base on top of the concrete and build up the surrounding floor to end up with a level entry into the shower.

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